Pre-Event

Arrive early to explore the museums, galleries, bars and beaches of Sydney, allowing you time to overcome your jetlag and regulate your pace to a more healthy holiday mood. The world famous Sydney Opera House with its resemblance to the vast sails of ships from a previous century, the gigantic harbour bridge with the option to take a walk to its summit, or the glorious Botanic Gardens all offer further distractions to help you adjust your rhythm. Formalities should be brief for those hiring a 4x4, if you have supplied us with the correct documentation in advance, and if your imported vehicle arrives CLEAN you will simply need to tick the various boxes prior to accepting your keys.

Day 1 : Sydney - Katoomba 251km (3:45hrs driving time)

7 October

You will have recovered from your flight, taken possession of your vehicle and, by now, I hope, you will be ready to see a part of this vast island. Our first day is not a long haul, but we leave the metropolis of Sydney at a reasonable hour to venture directly west into the Blue Mountains, named for the haze of eucalyptus mist rising from the forests. This range effectively separates the palm-fringed golden beaches from the notoriously harsh interior, and was a substantial barrier to the early colonial explorers. A very scenic road leads us to the townships of Leura and Katoomba where, clinging to the edge of the Jamieson Valley, they offer unrivalled views of the Three Sisters, the rock formation so often found on classic Australian postcards. Walking tracks abound, with variations from a five-minute stroll to 'hard yakka' treks lasting several days. The area is riddled with cafes, bars and restaurants, being so close to Sydney's large population. On the western side of the Krungle Bungle Range lie the Jenolan Caves, a mighty series of caverns housing a fine display of limestone stalagmites and stalactites. We will stay in a comfortable colonial hotel for our first night on the road.

Day 2 : Katoomba - Tamworth 486km (6:05hrs driving time)

8 October

We begin our route north today through Wollemi and Yengo National Parks, a wild area of steep gorges and rocky ridges, forming part of the Greater Blue Mountains World Heritage Area. Mt Yengo is of cultural significance to local Aboriginal communities and the historic Great North Road is an intact example of early 19th century convict road-building. There are many Aboriginal sites within these national parks including cave paintings, axe-grinding grooves, and rock carvings. In 2003, the discovery of Eagle's Reach cave was publicly announced-the art within this small cave is estimated to be 4,000 years old. The Hunter Valley and its multitude of quality wineries will make a great lunch halt before we climb on to the tablelands, which stretch the entire length of New South Wales. We pass Gowrie to overnight in Tamworth, two towns supporting a thriving local economy based on sheep and cattle farming. Various side-trips offer an insight into the once prosperous gold-mining industry and Nundle, in particular, has that outback ghost-town atmosphere.

Day 3 : Tamworth - Grafton 400km (6:15hrs driving time)

9 October

90km down the 'track' this morning will bring you to Uralla, another gold-town with the grave of Captain Thunderbolt, a notorious bushranger of the 1860s. The term bushranger referred to a runaway convict in the early years of the British settlement who had the survival skills necessary to hide from the authorities. A scenic side-road then leads via Gostwyck to Armidale, the surroundings of which bear a striking resemblance to 'the old country' with its tree-lined streets, parks, gardens and university. Now we start eastward toward the coast but aiming instead for our first taste of rainforest. Dorrigo National Park has a series of walkways including one stretched high above the canopy, giving a different perspective of the forest. Turning north we pass through beautiful national parks with shady canopies entirely enveloping the road.  Our chosen overnight accommodation is in Grafton, one of Australia's most beautiful provincial cities renowned for its Jacaranda trees, graceful old buildings and its location on the banks of the Clarence River.

Day 4 : Grafton - Lamington Nat. Park 290km (4:00hrs driving time)

10 October

Before leaving Grafton enjoy the lovely old town with gorgeous Jacaranda trees lining the streets, which of course, bloom a mellow mauve in the spring; I hope we shall see this spectacle beginning to appear. The roads as we travel north begin to enter flood-prone country and you will notice the tropical-style houses on stilts, some raised such that the car can be parked beneath! Fields of sugarcane are the predominant crop as we continue north, with rambling old homesteads reminding us of more affluent days. There will be an option to take your first 4x4 road today in the Border Ranges, although as we enter the tropics in a few days the 4x4 options become limitless. We cross the border into Queensland this afternoon heading for Lamington National Park, a vast and very dramatic reserve on the side of an extinct ancient volcano; Before leaving Grafton enjoy the lovely old town with gorgeous Jacaranda trees lining the streets, which of course, bloom a mellow mauve in the spring; I hope we shall see this spectacle beginning to appear. The roads as we travel north begin to enter flood-prone country and you will notice the tropical-style houses on stilts, some raised such that the car can be parked beneath! Fields of sugarcane are the predominant crop as we continue north, with rambling old homesteads reminding us of more affluent days. There will be an option to take your first 4x4 road today in the Border Ranges, although as we enter the tropics in a few days the 4x4 options become limitless. We cross the border into Queensland this afternoon heading for Lamington National Park, a vast and very dramatic reserve on the side of an extinct ancient volcano; it offers some fabulous bushwalks through rainforest. You will be staying at a lodge deep inside the national park.

Day 5 : REST DAY - Lamington National Park

11 October

Today, take your first rest day to explore Lamington National Park. Situated in the McPherson Ranges, this park is huge and covered in lush subtropical rainforest, waterfalls, and beautiful gorges; whether walking or driving, this national park is a treat for everyone. For those who need manmade stimulation, the Gold Coast is just 60km away with its outstanding beaches, shopping malls, bars and quality restaurants. 

Day 6 : Lamington Nat. Park - Tin Can Bay 382km (6:10hrs driving time)

12 October

Our route takes us directly north today, skirting the west of Brisbane and taking in the Darling Downs and the old railway town of Ipswich, an area largely ignored by tourists and all the nicer for that. North of Brisbane we will deviate from the main road to take in the Glass House Mountains, a wonderful series of volcanic cornices with some strenuous hikes for those who choose. The gorgeous Sunshine Coast is our second glimpse of this picture-postcard coastline, beaches as far as the eye can see of pure bleached golden sand, azure oceans, cloudless skies with endless cafes and restaurants to service your appetite. Hump-backed whales are often seen along this coast, as they form 'migrating pods' at this time of year. Although you don't get to see the trashy theme parks and tacky resorts in any of the brochures and holiday adverts, this is also Australia's family holiday park. Limitless options to detour from rally route will be rewarded with yet more stunning panoramas. Just north of Noosa Heads there is the option to drive up the Cooloola Coast on 50km of glorious beach. Our hotel of choice will be on the beautiful Rainbow Beach, overlooking the Coral Sea.

Day 7 : Tin Can Bay - Rockhampton 525km (6:20hrs driving time)

13 October

Before you leave today, take a look out to the eastern horizon, if you didn't see them yesterday, you may spot migrating whales forming pods before their journey to far-off oceans. Continuing north, we pass deeper and deeper into sugar country with endless tracts of sugarcane lining the roadside. Bundaberg is in the heart of sugar country, made famous by the rum factory that produces varying strengths of 'Bundy' including OP (over-proof). We persevere on the main highway, skirting to the west of Bundaberg itself, before officially crossing into the tropics at Rockhampton, a beautifully preserved old town of colonial hotels and quayside warehouses. Pause in a shady bar to take in this quaint cattlemen's town, which still services the farming hinterland to the west. Our lodgings for tonight are again close to the ocean with a tropical breeze billowing in off the water.

Day 8 : Rockhampton - Whitsunday Islands 517km (5:50hrs driving time)

14 October

Now the scenery and the pace of life change; this is tropical country. As we leave town, the Capricorn Caves are an impressive interruption before pressing on to Mackay. Mackay, fanned by tropical breezes and surrounded by a rustling sea of sugarcane, is a pleasant, no-nonsense town of charming colonial hotels and wide graceful streets. From here it's just 160km to our water taxi and comfortable lodge in the Whitsunday Islands, named by Captain Cook as he passed this way on Whitsunday in 1770. Nestled conveniently inside the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park, our hotel for the next two days is a five-star paradise with easy access to the startling underwater world, literally, on our doorstep.

Day 9 : REST DAY - Whitsunday Islands

15 October

One of the undoubted highlights of our journey is the world's largest living organism, the Great Barrier Reef. Our first contact with the reef will be at this southern end with a rest day to explore this outrageously vivid underwater world. Because the reef is so close to the surface, the water so warm and clear, it is perfectly satisfactory to snorkel, sending your senses into visionary overload; however, scuba-diving is offered to those with experience. Otherwise, take a scenic flight to appreciate the scale and diversity of the life surrounding you. There seems to be a plethora of poisonous creatures to take advantage of the unwary in Australia and the Great Barrier Reef is no exception with starfish, sea cucumbers, bluebox (jelly-fish) and stingray amongst others to avoid.

Day 10 : Whitsunday Islands - Cairns 635km (7:20hrs driving time)

16 October

Returning to the mainland, for a long day's drive, we keep on northward plunging deeper into the tropics with the promise of more fine beaches, quaint towns, and inspiring views. We pass Townsville, with its vibrant mix of 'watering holes' and gourmet eateries, moving towards that deep ochre dirt for which Australia is so famous; this is where rainforest meets outback meets reef! The road from here holds endless stunning vistas from rainforest bluffs overlooking expansive perfect beaches across to the Great Barrier Reef as it closes into the shore and where we approach Cairns for our next opportunity to immerse ourselves in the Great Barrier Reef. Cairns is the last major town to the north and, as such, it has a comprehensive range of shopping malls, restaurants, bars and even an international airport.

Day 11 : REST DAY - Cairns

17 October

The offerings in this city of 125,000 are limitless. A vast tourism trade to service the Atherton Tablelands and the Great Barrier Reef, the sugar and cattle industry to support, and the Cape York Peninsula to sustain makes Cairns incredibly diverse. The esplanade is a wonderful spot to relax, drink and people watch but you maybe more interested in taking another trip out to the reef, so close to the shore. A Greenpeace comment, "...see it while it's here..." may ring true if ocean currents continue to shift. The Atherton Tablelands less than one hour inland make for a change from the perfect beaches and topaz-blue ocean. Waterfalls, dense forests, lush green pastures, a violent volcanic past and a host of small service towns make this area ideal to discover on your rest day. Otherwise, find last-minute provisions for your rugged journey north from here.

Day 12 : Cairns - Cooktown 259km (4:35hrs driving time)

18 October

Heading north from Cairns the townships of Mossman and Daintree provide the final services until Cooktown, and our lodgings tonight. The country starts to get rugged as we leave behind the last of the sugar properties to cross the croc-infested Daintree River; here is where I worked during the sugar harvest of 1987. You may notice signs warning of errant crocodiles finding their way into private swimming pools! Cape Tribulation, named by Captain Cook who ran aground here in 1770, is the end of the sealed road before we embark on some tougher roads, travelling to Cooktown. Heavy virgin rainforest, tidal rivers, steep river exits, very little in the way of habitation and ferocious native wildlife keep this road unspoilt and challenging. The Lion's Den pub at Helenvale has as reputation as a watering hole not to be missed! Cooktown is our base for two days as we explore this far northern corner of Queensland, its native flora and fauna, Aboriginal culture, European history and rugged infrastructure.

Day 13 : LOOP/REST DAY Cooktown 286km (4:00hrs driving time)

19 October

Use today to wander the sleepy town itself, the botanic gardens and Nature's Powerhouse with interesting galleries, talk with the indigenous locals, watch out for crocodiles in the Endeavour River, or take time to step inside the James Cook Historical Museum with some very interesting features. Cooktown cemetery just outside town has some appeal, full of stories of the old pioneers. The lookout north of the township has a wonderful 360-degree panoramic view and walk to the beach at Cherry Tree Bay. Otherwise, take an outback trail west and north to the tiny township of Laura to visit an Aboriginal community living on the edge of nowhere; it's worth the trip just to see some fabulous rock art. There are many creepy-crawlies in the abundant bush and rainforest of this area, therefore, you should keep to formed roads and let others know of your intentions. 

Day 14 : Cooktown - Yungaburra 367km (6:20hrs driving time)

20 October

On the journey south today, we will take the main Mulligan Highway, a good sealed road for the first 175km. We then set out on rural roads towards the Atherton Tablelands, a picturesque country inland from Cairns and a respite from the tropical heat of the coast. Made up of attractive townships, waterfalls and inviting lakes, its elevation and rainfall make it prime dairy-farming country, having been cleared by early Chinese immigrants. Yungaburra is where you may get the chance to spot one of Australia's less-well-known marsupials, the duck-billed platypus. The waterfalls of this area are famed throughout the country with an easy circuit to view the most impressive; the Millstream falls have been measured at 150 metres wide while in flood and are the widest in the country. It would be easy to spend weeks exploring this charming World Heritage-listed region. We will stay in comfortable cottages, inside a quaint village.

Day 15 : Yungaburra - Undara Nat. Park 401km (6:05hrs driving time)

21 October

We venture east again towards the coast to enjoy the roads and national park of Tully Gorge; officially the wettest place in the country, Tully received a whooping 7.9 metres (25' 8") of rain in one year! Some of these roads are blindingly scenic though twisty and slow. Passing through the last of the delightful Atherton Tablelands, we make our way west to the amazing phenomenon of Undara National Park. About 190,000 years ago, when volcanic activity was shaping and re-shaping this part of northern Queensland, the gently sloping plains were flooded in places by massive amounts of lava. The incredible volume along with the terrain, not too steep and not too flat, allowed the lava to flow at a rate such that tubes were formed. The lava's surface, in contact with cool air, solidified. Now like a thick, insulated underground river, the lava beneath forged a path downstream, the longest arm extending 160 kilometres north-west. Once eruptions ceased, the insulated lava drained away, leaving pipelines over 100 kilometres long. We overnight in restored railway carriages inside the national park.

Day 16 : Undara Nat. Park - Hughenden 368km (4:50hrs driving time)

22 October

Now begins our true outback journey. Lonely Planet quotes, "It's out here, past the Great Dividing Range, that the sky opens wide and the sun beats down on tough country, both relentless and beautiful..." A large proportion of the day is on dirt roads heading directly south passing Porcupine National Park, where towering sandstone cliffs and lush vine-forest fringe Porcupine Creek, providing a striking contrast with surrounding flat plains. This impressive canyon reveals layers of sedimentary rock with the creek gliding between the cool walls. Our stable for tonight is standard outback accommodation; no frills but I guarantee the beer is cold!

Day 17 : Hughenden - Longreach 375km (5:00hrs driving time)

23 October

Our second day across the ‘never-never’ is a 375km run directly south to Longreach.  The 2x4s will enjoy good gravel roads mixed with some tarmac.  The 4x4s, however, can begin to ‘go bush’ with some sections ‘off the beaten track’ to put it mildly! Not a hard day but edging ever closer to the vast emptiness.  This is the district where Banjo Paterson, Australia's most famous bard, allegedly wrote Waltzing Matilda and you are likely to find a multitude of poets/impersonators, if you are willing to listen. Longreach, situated right on the Tropic of Capricorn, is a service town for the farming community and gives that wonderful big country town impression, where you feel you would be able to get anything; be warned it’s not true. They say more than a million sheep and cattle pass through this town on trucks every year. Our accommodation is simple, clean and cool: cool being the important factor!

Day 18 : Longreach - Station Homestead 358km (6:10hrs driving time)

24 October

Now we really start to go bush!  We head west on dirt roads that soon become tracks and then deteriorate into nothing more than a vague impression of wheel tracks; however, the GPS will give us a ‘fix’, enabling us to emerge on to one of the station tracks leading to our destination.  Coming out of the hills with the afternoon sun melting the sharpness off the countryside, it is now impossible not to relax into a healthy rhythm.  The landscape out here is vast and beautiful, though at the same time foreboding and somewhat menacing.  The station where we will stay caters for travellers, providing clean, comfortable accommodation and a good meal in an outback setting.

Day 19 : Station Homestead - Boulia 400km (6:00hrs driving time)

25 October

We have two possible routes today, one with plenty of 4x4 action, the other a more settled alternative. Our 2x4 customers will enjoy some good gravel roads interspersed with sections of tarmac. However, this is true outback Australia and no place for gung-ho bravado; ‘with respect’ is the only way to treat this desolate land. The 4x4 enthusiasts will have a very lonesome day crossing the vast Diamantina and may travel in convoy if they choose.  A long, hot highway brings us to the town of Boulia and a slice of civilisation. The Australian Hotel is a standard country pub, where we can enjoy the cool surroundings and lay our heads after a 'long day in the saddle'.  This is palaeontologists’ heaven and Boulia itself has a very complete and worthwhile display of dinosaur fossils.

Day 20 : Boulia - Birdsville 439km (5:30hrs driving time)

26 October

Continuing directly south today, mostly on dirt roads, the countryside is scattered with Waddi trees and little else.  Bedourie and the surrounding shire (94,823km2) had a population of 143 in the 2006 census, so don’t expect the only township en route today to offer many services.  However, you will find a welcome smile, a firm handshake, a cool drink, and a fuel supply.  Towns of the outback are littered with ingenuity: out here, you will be surprised how they get-by and how little goes to waste on the stations (farms) measured in square kilometres, not acres. Cuttaburra Crossing is a haven for wildlife, being the only reliable water for many miles, and you will have time to enjoy this noisy birds’ paradise.  There will also be a 4x4 loop, taking in Lake Machattie, though we cannot guarantee it will contain water at this time of year.

Day 21 : REST DAY - Birdsville

27 October

We are now as far outback as you can go; except that Birdsville is its hub and therefore has quite a range of services.  The iconic Birdsville Hotel is where we will be staying in modern motel style rooms, with a walk across the dusty yard to an historic bar and dining room, providing a welcome respite from the rigours of the road. Our rest day here gives us the opportunity to discover the area, with an excursion out to Nappanerica and the dunes on the eastern periphery of the Simpson Desert. The desert is, in fact, an erg or sand sea, constantly moving with the winds and famous for being Australia’s driest. You can even test your skill and try climbing its highest dune, let down your tyres and let rip!  This is also where you can learn more of the fateful Burke and Wills expedition of 1861, the two hapless explorers who perished on their return journey across the continent.

Day 22 : Birdsville - Innamincka 458km (5:45hrs driving time)

28 October

Heading southeast, the two categories will travel very different paths. The 4x4s will be on primitive dirt roads, using the famous Birdsville Track, before crossing the bed of a dried-up lake and scrambling across more rugged landscapes; we might specify that people taking this option travel in convoy because the track at times becomes unclear and difficult to follow, although a GPS spoor will be laid for you to keep an eye on.  As it is unmaintained and often impassable due to rain or floods, this route will only be used in dry weather; it takes around 6 hours in good conditions. Those taking the ‘main’ road will have over 100km extra to travel but on a clearly marked trail that will also be less time-consuming.  However, even this option is very basic, with no proper roading material used, coupled with this, any rain can have a huge impact on the surface.  It crosses the immense station of Cordillo Downs, owned by the Brooks family who are the undisputed cattle kings of this region, currently running about 7,000 head of cattle on the 7,900km² of property.  You can visit their historic woolshed, the largest in Australia, with stands for 120 shearers, who sheared 82,000 sheep in a record season.  Further on is the abandoned ruin of an outstation that lies on the banks of a permanent waterhole; the bones of Cadelga remain, bleaching in the sun as a reminder of the dreams that came before us but have long since evaporated.

Day 23 : Innamincka - Gammon Ranges 574km (8:00hrs driving time)

29 October

Another day on unsealed roads, using part of the famous Strzelecki Track, taking us further south, still on a primitive surface, although the base becomes more solid and trustworthy.  This track is named after Sir Paul Edmund de Strzelecki (1797–1873), explorer and scientist, who was originally from Poland but made many pioneering expeditions out here.  It is a long day, covering what may seem a barren lifeless landscape; however, the nodding donkeys tell a different story of what lies below the surface. The cattle stations in this region are gargantuan, even by world standards—Anna Creek being the largest, with an acreage of roughly 6,000,000 acres or 24,000km², which is slightly larger than the country of Israel.  We will cross the line of the famous ‘dingo fence’, constructed during the 1880s to keep dingoes out of the relatively fertile southeast part of the continent.  It is one of the longest structures in the world and is the world's longest fence. Although the fence has helped reduce losses of sheep to predators, it has been only partially successful; dingoes can still be found in some parts of the southern states and, unfortunately, these days poison is a more commonly used deterrent.  Our resting place tonight is a boutique establishment just outside the beautiful Gammon Ranges National Park.

Day 24 : Gammon Ranges - Flinders Ranges 100km (2:00hrs driving time)

30 October

Purposely, the shortest driving day of the event, today has a great deal to offer everyone.  We travel from one national park to the next, giving those who appreciate nature time to loiter amongst the stunning scenery, making walks to explore idyllic streams and hidden valleys.  For the rough and tumble Boys’ Brigade, we also have a great day with the opportunity to cross a large station on private roads, whilst also learning of the plants and animals that thrive here to make this a place of outstanding beauty.  We will be staying on a station (farm) with beautiful villas perched in the hills overlooking the backdrop of the Flinders Ranges.

Day 25 : Flinders Ranges - Adelaide 543km (7:30hrs driving time)

31 October

A fairly long day into the city of Adelaide if you drive the entire route, although sections can be shortened or missed if the mood takes you.  There are Aboriginal caves and paintings to view as well as the ruins of later European settlement. The vineyards of the Clare and Barossa valleys make an ideal lunch halt, with some excellent restaurants scattered throughout the region; these New World wines have grown in refinement and popularity in recent years, and are amongst the best Australia has to offer.  One of Australia’s premier motor museums is en route for anyone wanting to learn of this country’s motoring history. The descent from the hills is through luscious, forested tors on twisty and scenic roads, bringing us to the quaint city of Adelaide for a well-earned rest.

Day 26 : REST DAY - Adelaide

1 November

This is a city where you can seriously unwind! Adelaide has a free and vibrant city centre along with wonderful beaches, interesting museums, and a hedonistic nightlife. The world-famous Birdwood Motor Museum is an outstanding display of truly world-class motorcars from the earliest inception of motive power. The Kaurna (pronounced Gar-na) people are the traditional owners and custodians of the Adelaide Plains, and this is an ideal place for you to be introduced to the rich culture and history of these people. Also the Aboriginal Cultures Gallery at the South Australian Museum houses the world’s largest collection of Australian Aboriginal antiquities. Otherwise, at the Botanic Gardens, learn about their traditional foods and culture. If you are suffering from a lack of beaches with the obligatory pretty girls, then head for Glenelg with summer temperatures averaging 27°C, it’s great for sailing, diving, fishing, swimming or just strolling along the jetties, dining and relaxing. Adelaide has more than its share of great beaches; in fact, 60 kilometres of white sandy beachfront makes up the urban district coastline. Facing west, this makes the perfect spot for alfresco dining or evening drinks on the beach.

Day 27 : Adelaide - Grampians Nat. Park 572km (8:00hrs driving time)

2 November 

Leaving Adelaide in an easterly direction we will cross the famous Murray River aboard a tiny ferry, this river is the third longest navigable river in the world, after the Amazon and Nile. Its total length is 2756 kilometres from its source and is part of the third largest water catchment on earth; the Murray is continuously navigable for 1986 kilometres and inhabitants such as the Murray Cod can easily grow up to 6 feet in length.  Continuing south from Tailem Bend we move into softer landscapes supporting pastoral farming with Suckler herds the predominant industry.  The national parks of the Grampians Ranges offer us a multitude of options on quiet rural roads twisting and turning through the picturesque mountains; in the spring-time wildflowers are abundant and offer another attraction.

Day 28 : Grampians Nat. Park - Melbourne 496km (7:00hrs driving time)

3 November

Today holds another of Australia's true highlights, the Great Ocean Road, stretching from Warrnambool in the west to Melbourne; this road must be one of Australia's most famous and, I think, it certainly lives up to the hype. The classic postcard beaches, the seaside towns, and the lush rainforest of the Otway Ranges on the landward side all combine to make this drive unforgettable. The Twelve Apostles standing just offshore with white sea-foam beneath make a spectacular photograph amid the deep blue waters of the Bass Strait. You will certainly need to use your mirrors to avoid slowing other road-users as you gawp across the perfect bays and inlets, but keep moving on this long and scenic day. Also known in the past as the Shipwreck Coast, the stretch from Cape Otway to Torquay was notorious in the days of sailing ships for its hidden reefs and frequent fog. At the end of this exciting road, we come to Melbourne and our day's end. We shall stay in a luxury colonial-style hotel and be fed on the rich European dishes of this multicultural city.

Day 29 : Melbourne - Gippsland 357km (4:25hrs driving time)

4 November

A short driving day allows us to have a lazy start, perhaps visiting a museum or gallery in the heart of this dynamic, sophisticated city. We exit the city via the Dandenong Ranges National Park for stunning walks under a canopy of lush tree ferns, while the quaint villages of Belgrave or Olinda are nice places to wander among the antique shops and cafes at a leisurely pace. The William Ricketts Sanctuary is where romantic Aboriginal figures have been carved from wood and set among the forest which makes an interesting sight. Another option is to make an early start and take a side excursion to the outstanding Wilson's Promontory National Park, though you will be in for a long day with this alternative. Further east, we get the chance to visit the Gippsland Motor Museum in Maffra. This tiny town has long been a strong motoring centre, it boasts a local hill climb track run by the Maffra and District Car Club and a motocross track as well. The interior of St Mary's Church in Bairnsdale is truly worth visiting even if you're not remotely religious. We overnight in comfortable accommodation in the shadow of the Great Dividing Range.

Day 30 : Gippsland - Kosciuszko Nat. Park 460km (5:55hrs driving time)

5 November

Leaving the huge sand dunes and the ocean behind, we head inland through the Snowy River National Park made famous in Europe by the 1982 Australian film based on the Banjo Paterson poem of the same name. The limestone caves at Buchan hold fine stalagmites and stalactites but more interesting is the ancient chambers embedded with marsupial bones and rock engraving dating back 17,000 years. The road winds and twists through the mountains past the Yarrangobilly Caves in Kosciuszko National Park. These caves, discovered to Europeans by a cattleman, include several independent caves formed over a vast time period from several million to a few hundred thousand years. Our lodgings tonight are on the boundary of the national park in quiet comfortable quarters.

Day 31 : Kosciuszko Nat. Park - Sydney 429km (4:35hrs driving time)

6 November

Leaving the high peaks and heavy forest of the national parks behind, our final day is a simple blast into Sydney for those who desire; however, there are more excursions and deviations for anyone wishing to savour their 'Australian Amble'. Recommended reading on this last section has to be Banjo Paterson and The Road to Gundagai, telling us the story of fleeting love or perhaps passion? Otherwise you should be listening to Slim Dusty's all-time classic Along the Road to Gundagai, which became very popular in World War II, a quite different tale recounting the story of a boy returning home to Gundagai; we pass this town as we skirt Canberra. One deviation is into the magnificent Moreton National Park; Bungonia Gorge holds a deep chasm carved in the limestone rocks, which themselves are full of limestone caves. Some of the rural country towns on our way to the metropolis of Sydney are worth the pause too. Tonight we dress for dinner and our "Hui" before farewells to friends old, new and reacquainted.