FEBRUARY 2012
A belated Happy New Year to everyone, may 2012 bring fortune and rude good health to you all. There have been silent weeks from us in the Antipodes as we concentrate our minds on what can only be described as the mundane and tedious tasks behind the scenes. We are still pulling plans together to provide an exciting and differing schedule to that which most operators offer.
Lally currently has approximately 115% of the hotels we require booked and will start to relinquish bookings as plans become finalised. In addition to this she will be releasing rooms not required as we begin paying deposits for the rooms we still need. She is sending out forms and questionnaires’ to everyone joining us to ask for details of rooming as well as dietary and clothing requirements. (Mr. Thake may be excused these formalities to be issued with a simple bunk bed and an extra small tee shirt; the rest of us can then marvel at his silhouette as the sun touches the horizon at the end of a long and eventful day!)
I am working on digital mapping documents in conjunction with our cartographer, Sandra, who will be making more detailed maps for the regions where the GPS cannot find existing roads; for some of the more remote districts you may wish to travel in convoy if your map-reading skills are questionable. Since our last event in NZ we have had to update the digital base maps and operating programmes which means I will need to learn a new/different set of instructions to control the system. The new generation of GPS have become more ‘dumbed-down’ for the everyday user and less easy for us to manipulate therefore I am trying to locate a few extra of the units we used on the last event.
We have been liaising with the road authorities of several states to clarify the compulsory insurance requirements and our ‘man on the ground’ has been ruffling some feathers to ascertain exactly what the situation is and how this can be instigated in practical terms.
It is only now, as we get closer to our intended shipping window that I can firm-up contracts for those bringing their own vehicle as well as details of hire for those renting; you will be informed of what is necessary in due course.
NOVEMBER 2011
Second Australian Survey Report: Upon arriving in Sydney on the ‘red-eye special’ leaving Christchurch at 4.30am, Lally hurriedly left the airport for numerous pre-arranged hotel meetings, while I caught a taxi to collect our hired Toyota 4x4. I then spent most of the day fixing various GPS, tripmeters and a map-reading light to the interior. Late in the evening, we collected and stowed the remainder of our survey equipment from storage before collapsing into bed shattered, Lally mumbling something about “…and we haven’t even started yet”.
The following day, we did some work around Sydney visiting start/finish venues and entertainment providers to see what is available. We had discovered last year that we would need to make a tulip roadbook to get us clear of the city because the GPS units struggle to get an accurate fix with so many skyscrapers in close proximity. Sydney being the ultra-modern, hyper-ventilating city that it is, I knew the best time of day for this exercise would be 3.00 to 4.00am and set the alarm accordingly. However, we both managed to ignore a repeated yelp from the aforementioned device until 6.12am when Lally became aware of a pathetic mewing from beside the bed! I was woken to the news… “We need some more batteries for the alarm.” I digress.
Our aiming point to start the unsurveyed portion of the event was some 2,500km to the north and, therefore, leaving Sydney in that direction, we had one toll-road fee to check, which we gladly found had been abolished, before crossing a river by ferry to start a scenic gravel road that I have decided to use in preference to the monotonous two-lane alternative previously surveyed. The route north gave us the ideal opportunity to polish and amend the findings of the primary survey and from those results I have decided to re-route the event to bypass Coffs Harbour, remaining further to the west. I found a short (10km) and rugged 4x4 section through a man-made forest to give those preferring this means of transport their first taste of Australian bush. Last year we had used a very rural 4x4 road to get these same customers into a national park for our first rest day; I wanted to recheck if it was still workable and happily found it to be much drier and more manageable. I now have options for those wishing to ‘go bush’ on five of the first seven days of the event, though that is not to say anyone driving a classic car will miss out. I’ve made another small change allowing access to an interesting treetop/canopy walkway, which Lally experienced, reporting that it is fascinating and interesting but not for the vertigo sufferer!
Creek crossing in Victoria Great Otway National Park "Jump-ups", an interesting feature
Continuing north the published 2012 tide tables show the beach drive we plan for 12 October will mesh with our itinerary—if you don’t loiter over your breakfast muesli! Once again, I am reminded of my youth as we pass closer to the tropics, the warm soporific breeze starting to warm our pasty southern skin, inviting us to relax into an easygoing tropical demeanour. We also noticed the remnants of another tropical weather pattern in the form of destruction wreaked by Cyclone Yasi on 3 February this year; large trees snapped like matchwood fifty feet above the ground. On arriving in Mossman, a sugar processing township of the far north, I was disappointed to find that they will no longer be able to offer us a tour of the mill they’d promised last year due to insurance and public liability issues, but we shall endeavour to find an alternative. A further disappointment, again due to mankind’s hectic blind rush into the future, was the colossal number of road ‘improvements’ since our last visit, but this survey has given us the chance to remove ourselves further from what is becoming the country’s main arteries.
The road south from Hughenden to Longreach needed some additional assessment and, while tracking south reviewing notes made beforehand, we came across a caravan of camels within a kilometre of where we had previously found them.
The geography and ancient history of this land are fascinating and our route south will bear this out. I have learnt of the massive upheaval and movement of the once great continent of Gondwanaland, the later receding of the vast inland seas, the forming of what is now termed a ‘jump-up’ due to erosion, the time of the mighty dinosaur, and the relatively recent but colossal volcanic activity. This story is locked up in the ground beneath us, and becomes more fascinating as you learn and grasp the importance of how it has shaped the current Australia. I think it’s all the more fascinating for the fact that only in modern times has it been properly researched and understood; modern times, being the last 100 years or so. What is more, you can get close to it, handle dinosaur fossils, and talk to the palaeontologists and geologists, which I found most interesting.
As we moved further south and west, the roads became more primitive, receiving less attention from the grader; indeed, we had to resort entirely to the GPS in some cases, with numerous indefinite tracks leading away into the vast desert. At one point, we stopped to take a photograph of an immense plain spread before us, I switched off the engine, the vehicle creaked into a heated silence and we became aware of the truly deafening quiet.
Passing through large stands of eucalypt, it was genuinely noticeable how your airways became more open and clear helped by the wonderful soft scent. The wildlife, though not on an African scale, is really quite varied and abundant at anytime of day if you know where to look. Lally listed emu, kangaroo, eagle, wombat, koala, goanna, lizard, galah and cockatoo, camel, wallaby, parrot, snake, and I’m sure we saw many types of each of these. One particular character you will notice is the Netted Dragon, a lizard type reptile of no more than a foot in length who will charm you with his flirting and dancing. The Spinifex Pigeon is another interesting and abundant inhabitant of the bush with smart and colourful crested plumage. During the heat of the day, it would appear nothing can survive the relentless temperatures but if you look carefully in the shadows life continues at a slower pace. The Bilby, a timid and shy rodent, lives its entire life without a single drink of water, taking moisture only from the near-dry vegetation that it eats and, for that reason, has the advantage as the ultimate desert survivor.
Beautiful hidden sculpture gardens Getting close to a Netted Dragon Grampians National Park
We visited a station (farm) offering accommodation in this region to find basic clean rooms where we can overnight our group, though if we get a full entry, staff and latecomers might need to camp; thankfully at this time of year, the temperatures are mild by outback standards (nothing above 50 centigrade and only 3km walk to the nearest clean water… Make your entry now!).
Opals are mined extensively in this district, with shanty-style housing for those mad enough to live the dream of finding their ‘nest-egg’. It is interesting too to learn of how opal is formed and, indeed, even opalised dinosaur bones have been found. In simple terms, it is created from a solution of silicon dioxide and water. As water runs down through the earth, it picks up silica from sandstone and carries this silica-rich solution into cracks and voids caused by natural faults or decomposing fossils. As the water evaporates, it leaves behind a silica deposit. This cycle repeats over very long periods of time and eventually opal is formed.
The following day, classic cars and 4x4s will leave the station in opposite directions. While the 4x4s will head southwest into less inviting country, the two-wheel-drive participants will remain on better gravel roads to the north before turning due west. There is no fuel available for either group on this day and you will be advised where to fill the day before at the last option, but this is where long-range tanks become a welcome accessory; you will travel on good dirt roads for at least an hour before reaching the station’s boundary fence. Those taking the 2x4 route will get the option of a lunch halt in a tiny outback hotel where you will find cold drinks and a snack but little else, before continuing southwest to Boulia, our overnight halt. The 4x4 option tracks due south on rudimentary roads before turning in a general westerly direction. We spent a good deal of time in this area, following what is no more than a pair of wheel tracks, but leaving regular waypoints to provide a ‘virtual’ spoor for our customers. Whilst surveying these sections, we arrived in Winton after dusk, only to find that there was not a single spare bed in the town due to the annual rodeo! The most gracious landlady of the Winton Hotel offered us a welcome plate of hot food and the upstairs veranda as a bedroom. We unrolled our swags on the simple boards and took a most comfortable night’s rest, aided by a soft breeze from the south. I had a good chuckle the following morning: after we had packed the ‘Ute’ and bade our farewell, Lally turned on the GPS and logged our intended route, only to be instructed by the demure voice of Lady Jane from inside the unit, “In 374km, turn left on Kennedy developmental road.” In a similar occurrence in Winton, whilst trying to find and inspect a point of interest, I was informed, “It’s just down the road.” Knowing the scale of things out here and the locals’ interpretation of “Just down the road”, I asked for more precise instructions. I was told, “Take your first left and then your first right and it’s on your right.” That sounded simple enough and not too onerous, and indeed the instructions were correct; however, we reach our intended destination exactly 247km and 3½ hours later!
Graffiti is not my favourite form of art, but I’m sure I’m the same as most folk and cannot avoid reading it. One such instance was found on an isolated desert lookout where I read, “The heart of Australia, it’s plain to see, is the dried up bed of an inland sea.” These words exactly sum up how this region was formed and, standing in the eerie silence, it’s hard to imagine this as anything but endless desert.
Boulia is a classic outback town where you imagine those iconic Australian films such as Picnic at Hanging Rock or Walkabout being made. We saw Emu grazing on the main street and were told they come into town when the surrounding pasture becomes scarce. The shire covers an area of 61,000km2 and has a population of just 603. Boulia receives its mail once a week on a Friday by light aircraft if the weather is fine, and everyone knows when it’s Friday because it’s mail day! Our habitation is cool and clean, the fuel station sells a range of provisions, and the town boasts a camel rodeo once a year. Boulia has little else to keep you entertained except perhaps for ‘Dinosaur Dick’ and the Stonehouse Museum. I must say the huge display, number of fossils, the information and detail held in this museum as well as the enthusiasm of Dick all combine to make this a most interesting visit. Unbeknownst to me, another of Lally’s passions is dinosaurs, and it is due to her insistence that we covered in detail the dinosaurs and the Mesozoic Era in which they lived; a period which began 245 million years ago and lasted for approximately 180 million years. We visited a dig site where they are working methodically and tirelessly to piece together what went on here many millennia ago; I found it fascinating and quite emotional to visit and understand a miniscule portion of what lies buried just below the surface.
A road less travelled Bucolic hills of the Border Ranges Climbing dunes, Simpson Desert
Driving in the remote outback has a different set of rules to those which you would normally apply to more populated places. For example, the massive roadtrains that travel these regions have TOTAL right of way; as they approach, don’t for any reason think you can remain on the road, just slow down, pull over and enjoy watching these monstrous trucks rattle by. On our way south to Birdsville, the road stretches to a pinpoint on the horizon, yet we came upon a large road authority sign emblazoned with the message, “NEXT OVERTAKING OPPORTUNITY 45KM AHEAD.” Indeed, notes made while surveying this section comment on the dull emptiness and I quote an Australian poet, “The everlasting sameness of the never-ending plains,” George Essex Evans 1902.
Birdsville itself has gained a reputation for being the as far outback as you can go; this, of course, is not strictly true. Birdsville these days has a good number of lodgings, is the hub of the Channel country, and bases a good deal of its income on tourism. We shall stay two nights in the Birdsville Hotel, which offers cool, clean and modern motel units and a bar/restaurant with plenty of character and characters! Your rest day here can include a visit to ‘Big Red’, the well-known sand dune on the eastern perimeter of the vast Simpson Desert. There are other interesting spots to visit, especially after rain when the waterholes fill and life in the desert surrounds them. The cemetery makes an interesting visit, as does a walk through the town’s dusty streets. The tragic tale of explorers Burke and Wills is another poignant story to discover while here.
South from here we spent several days thrashing out alternatives but the turbulent weather has limited what is on offer. I now have a good first choice for the 2x4s and those wanting a tidy run; the entire day is on either man-made gravel roads or simply a grader blade pushed through the bush with no actual roading material used. Lally and I agree it is also the most scenic option. We were unable to complete my preferred route for the 4x4s; we surveyed both northern and southern ends of the trail as far as we could travel. Nevertheless, being a single vehicle traversing some very isolated tracks, I didn’t wish to put us, the vehicle or the entire survey in jeopardy; I admit there were times on this survey I would have pushed ahead had we been in the company of another 4x4.
Many of the sections we intend to use as a 4x4 alternative will only be passable given typical weather for the season. Australia and New Zealand have experienced anything but predictable weather in recent years and, therefore, we shall be somewhat restricted if weather patterns remain so unsettled. There are, of course, also some corrugations on these roads but that is entirely dependent on how recently the grader has been through. Furthermore, we will be providing tulip roadbooks to use in conjunction with the GPS in some outback regions because the satellite mapping remains unreliable.
Australia is realising its vast mineral wealth and you will see examples of this as you travel south towards Adelaide—the ‘nodding donkeys’ quietly gulping oil from below the barren landscape. The road continues south, passing through huge pastoral stations running large mobs of cattle on what looks like nothing more than dusty semi-desert with little sustenance for the passing livestock.
Having surveyed the options in this area, we have decided to move our intended overnight to better accommodation further south. This does mean making a long day longer—potentially the longest day of the event, although not the toughest. It means an early start for everyone but, as a bonus, the following day, which is very scenic, will be more relaxed. Ambling through the Flinders Ranges National Park, stopping to meander down tracks, soaking up the beautiful scenery makes this shorter day very worthwhile. I am also very happy to have found two rugged and scenic options in the Flinders Ranges for those of you who still wish to tackle lonely tracks. You will get the opportunity to cross stations (farms) on their private roads, see the countryside, learn of the plants and animals these properties contain whilst climbing hills and ridges to immense and beautiful views.
Finally, Adelaide draws closer as we move into the more temperate zones; the farming becomes more intensive and the whole area more affluent. I spotted a rusty traction engine at the entrance to one of these farms and decided to investigate and what I found was the place I hope to go to when I die. Only joking, but in the sheds and extensive buildings around the homestead was the most wonderful collection of steam and early internal combustion engines. Peter, the character whose place it is, was most welcoming and gladly showed us some of his treasures. We left a waypoint on the entrance and will let Peter know the date our group will be passing. Needless to say, Lally didn’t find the same enthusiasm as me, but then I do struggle with aromatherapy and spa treatments! The route into Adelaide passes through one of Australia’s most prestigious regions of viniculture, and our timing allows for lunch at one of the multitude of wineries in the Clare and Barossa valleys. Our chosen accommodation for you is a central city five-star establishment with a well-earned rest day to follow. Whether you are a beach bum/bunny, a bon vivant, an art lover, an old car devotee or a sailor, then Adelaide has something for you with its big country-town feel and charming spring climate.
The last week of the event passes through some beautiful areas of South Australia and Victoria on better roads that everyone can enjoy. On this survey, we planned to spend three days travelling towards Melbourne and, as one gets away from the cities again, the farming is rich and productive with large dairy herds consuming the lush green pastures of the soft bucolic hills. Crossing the border into Victoria, we entered another national park on beautifully smooth gravel roads—here the native bush encroaches and immediately the scenery has changed. The multitude of options through this national park gives us the opportunity to cater for everyone’s needs and, whilst ‘testing’ these options, I managed to get the ‘Ute’ heavily bogged. We spent an hour getting cold and wet, jacking and positioning logs under the tyres before walking out; 10km of forced march brought us to another road where we hoped to find a passing vehicle. The outcome of events was half a day looking for usable roads followed by another half day of vehicle recovery, the net result of which gave us zip, nada, zilch, nothing! That’s surveying. Thankfully this district is undeniably pretty, so it is not imperative to go deep into the hills on harsh tracks; the good shingle main road offers the same views without the unwanted exercise. Many of you will have heard of The Great Ocean Road and I’m sure some of you will have seen it previously, as I have. However, there is no doubt you will gape at the awesome beauty of the coastline where the azure blue waters of the Bass Straight meet the limestone cliffs of the continent. Lally used the camera like a Viet Cong with a machine-gun on this section; all I could hear from the passenger’s seat was “WOW” rat,tat,tat,tat…. “WOW” rat,tat,tat,tat… hyphenated occasionally by “WOW STOP” rat,tat,tat,tat… My only comment? Marvellous these digital cameras, thank goodness for the delete button. Continuing, our preferred route before entering Melbourne deviates briefly from the coast to cover some of the scenic roads of the hinterland.
Roadtrains weigh nearly 200 tons "Wow" rat, tat, tat, tat... Outback hotel carpark, 4x4 Country
Our group will be overnighting in Melbourne during Melbourne Cup Week; the biggest horse racing event on the national calendar. Unfortunately, we do not have time in the schedule to incorporate a day at the races. However, if anyone has the desire to stay for a day, there is room in the timetable for them to make up a day by missing one section or another. Our route on the final leg towards Sydney takes us through a rural township destroyed by bushfires in 2009, and we visit a most enchanting garden where, hidden amongst the plants, pools and paths, you can find sculptures of the most detailed and life-like figures; there are Lord of the Rings type gnomes and fairies with such perfect scale and features as to be almost alive. I am very happy with the route we have finalised through the Yarra Ranges on little used roads in good condition, passing quaint townships and densely forested valleys. For our accommodation, Lally has secured nice lodgings on the south coast amongst the waterways of the Lakes National Park. From here, we turned northward into the Snowy Mountains, the poems of Banjo Paterson racing through my head.
For the final day’s drive into Sydney, I have found a gem thanks to the enthusiasm of a local. It all started by my asking a resident about the condition of various roads in the district. John scratched his chin but, not being an expert on the roads I intended using, passed us on to David, who scratched his chin and decided we really needed to talk with Phil. Phil came from across town, more chin scratching, and he then took us to his home, gave us maps and directions, saying have fun. What resulted was a lovely drive for both categories through lightly forested hills and valleys, although anyone taking the 4x4 option will have an extra hour and a half of driving to arrive at the same destination. The return to the city itself is straightforward on good dual carriageway and, as a last glimpse of this interesting and heterogeneous community, our final 10km takes us through turn of the (twentieth) century shopping districts, showing classic facades with local produce and services still at high street level as opposed to the aseptic homogenous shopping outlets we now find ourselves being conditioned to.
That pretty much sums up this survey, though you will be pleased to hear that before leaving Sydney, Lally and I did manage to raise ourselves from bed at 3am to successfully roadbook the route out of, as well as into, Sydney. Looking forward, I have a colossal amount of work to do finalising exact routes before we can build those into a usable format for the GPS. We are also working on the details of shipping and road registration as well as hire vehicles. Meanwhile, Lally is sifting through hotel questionnaires, excursion arrangements and therapeutic treatments for the softies amongst you. That’s all for now; you will hear from us again in due course. Haere ra atui Aotearoa.
AUGUST 2011
Both Lally and I have been busy working hard in our respective areas of expertise towards the upcoming Australian event. Lally now has 70% of the hotels booked, along with some extra options in towns where we are still undecided. She has also been avidly researching scenic roads and 4x4 tracks across many sections in Victoria and southern New South Wales in an effort to find the ultimate route for our customers. We are aware too that not everyone is driving a 4x4 and that even those who are do not always want to take the bone-jarring, nerve-tearing roads. In the south of the country I know some spectacular mountain roads, which are a pleasure to drive, except that they can be too twisty and sick-making even for the toughest constitution. To that end, we have tried to ensure that in nine out of ten cases we have a more gentle option for those who desire it. I should point out that we will be covering a large proportion of a large country and, on some days, there is no alternative except to keep everyone moving along. However, you may change your mind from one day to the next, picking and choosing the route that suits your mood. I am itching to get into the desert regions again to finalise our route; the abominable weather has disrupted our spoor, leaving us with fewer options and potentially too long days in succession. The road we originally planned to use south from Birdsville will not be open again this year, but I have an alternative track, crossing a huge sheep station and passing Australia's largest woolshed, avoiding the flooded plain. One of my mates who has recently used this road tells me, "Yes, it's on, but no sealed road and at times rough." The day following this one is also largely on dirt but in better condition because it provides access to the Moomba oil and gas field.
Following our route last October and the flooding since, we will have to revisit numerous segments that we had hoped not to; this has meant the next survey will be extended. Air tickets and a Utility are booked to begin work in the first week of September 2011, lasting for eight weeks; I will be able to give you an up-to-date and accurate report upon our return in November.
I would like to point out that the last discount for entries applies only until October 31st this year, after which anyone wishing to join will need to pay the full amount. I should also point out that we have had a good response to discounted entries and there are only a limited number of places still available. Those of you who know Lally can create an image of her already panicking to find adequate lodging for everyone in the more remote districts! The antipodean expression, "First up, best dressed" will be used to allocate rooms where we cannot find accommodation of identical standard. That is to say, the earlier you enter the higher up the pecking order you will be when we are allotting rooms. I hope therefore, you will not sit on the fence too long only to find yourself sharing the shelter of a wattle bush with what may become your extended Aboriginal family!
Haere ra atui Aotearoa (Farewell from New Zealand)
MONDAY 13 JUNE 2011 - Jingers Jaunts as a "Dating" agency.
We have been approached by individuals interested in joining our next jaunt but who do not have a crew share yet and Lally will be pleased to act as a confidential "Dating agency" on your behalf. As such, she will handle all enquiries in the strictest confidence hoping to enable single participants to share the experience as part of a crew. If you are in the same predicament let us know and she will pass-on any "matches" as soon as possible.
We have spent time researching the desert regions from northern Queensland down through "the guts" to Adelaide. Lally has been fossicking not for rare minerals but for adequate accommodation! Unfortunately this is no easy task though she has spoken to Stations' (Cattle ranchs') and simple guesthouses compiling a list of possible overnight halts. As you may be aware these regions don't offer the same standards and range of facilities as in the more populated centres and therefore we must make the very best of what is on offer. A further obstacle being the size of our group; Lally is intending to keep everyone under the same roof, however if we find reasonable lodging and must split the group overnight then this may become an option.
I have been in touch with my contacts and spent time hunched over digital mapping programmes to find a route that will not be entirely Tarmacadam but neither will it require endless use of the winch cable coupled with profane language! In some instances on this section, we have no option but a long day in the proverbial saddle although this will depend largely on the prevailing weather; you should be prepared for over ten hours of driving on as many as three days though not three consecutive days.
As a post-script...... Sitting here in Christchurch over the last nine months we have regrettably become blasé to any earthquake below 4.5 on the Richter scale. Today we received another reminder of our fragile grasp on this island with six shocks over 5.0, the largest measuring 6.3 on the Richter scale; just when our nerves were beginning to repair. There has been further injuries, infra-structure damage, and liquefaction but thankfully no deaths.
SATURDAY 26 FEBRUARY 2011
This report is simply updating everyone on our situation following the most recent earthquake in Christchurch on February 22 at 12:51. This second huge quake although not measuring as large as last September's has been far more destructive; centred closer to the city and at such a shallow depth the outcome has been devastating.
Sadly, everything is in a terrible mess here... 148 confirmed dead and still more than 200 unaccounted for. We are all fine... an immensely scary experience but we are unhurt. For those of you who know Christchurch it will never be the same again... the city centre is totally destroyed. Lally and I are both fine, my parents (Peter & Anne Riley) are staying with us and were in the beautiful Christchurch art gallery when the quake hit; they made a hurried exit to the car, driving home to Gebbies Valley through what can only be described as a city resembling a war zone with chaos and debris flung hither and thither by the force of nature.
The international response has been heartening with USAR (Urban Search & Rescue) teams flying in from Australia, Japan, England and the United States. They continue to sift through the wreckage of our city though the hope of finding survivors diminishes as the days pass. We are beginning to move into recovery mode where the clean-up starts and the assessment of damage begins. Indeed, Lally has been out as part of a team clearing liquefaction and rocks from the streets and houses of Christchurch.
JANUARY 2011
While we have not completed any further route-survey work since our foray to Australia in October November last year, this Dispatch gives details of more recent follow-up and planned changes as a result of that survey. One of my overriding conclusions and indeed concerns from our recent work in eastern Australia was the vast commercialism and rapid growth the country has seen in the last two decades since I was a mere boy' working on a sugar plantation in northern Queensland. I am now acutely aware that to give you a diverse, contrasting, and complete picture of the continent we will need to forage further afield, guiding the entire event through the Never, Never and crossing some of the country's toughest though strangely magnificent terrain.
My original plan had been to split the route in northern Queensland, taking the 'sane and well-adjusted' members of our group down through Outback Queensland, visiting national parks and numerous small towns; whilst the slightly 'unhinged' (such as myself) would go 'beyond the Black Stump', visiting the harsh and unforgiving interior. However, I now find that many of the 'highlights' spoken of in guidebooks and digital formats are stretching what any sane and well-adjusted person would believe! The problem being that some of the smaller towns have little of any consequence to offer and so the meagre facts become somewhat embellished. Now therefore, those of you who consider yourselves belonging to the sane and well-adjusted group will remain with those of us who are proudly unhinged to cross the vast central deserts of the continent.
I have some good contacts from motorsport in Australia, which will enable us to survey parts of the Simpson Desert and the Channel Country, using local guides with intimate knowledge and understanding of the region. We have one of the region's most highly respected guides and bushman confirmed to join us on our next survey, covering the central section of the route. I must stress it will require camping on more than one occasion, but I will be working hard to ensure those instances are both fun and comfortable; for those of you who know Lally, it will be her attestation as to what is acceptable.
I have several other additions to look at while crossing the Never, Never; for instance, getting involved in a cattle muster on one of the big stations-and when I say 'big' I mean 'BIG'. Several properties range in size from a million acres to as large as two or three million acres, though far beyond these and further south, we shall be passing Anna Creek, the world's largest cattle station at 24,000 square kilometres (approx. 6,000,000 acres). The stocking rate gives an idea as to the type of country we shall be passing, with figures as low as one cattle-beast on 2,000 acres.
We shall look at the possibility of going 'bush' with an Aborigine to dine on Wattle seed and Witchetty grubs. We also pass the site of the only known recorded dinosaur stampede on earth. Around 95 million years ago (give or take a million), a large herd of small two-legged dinosaurs gathered on the banks of a forest lake to drink. The herd was stalked by a large Theropod - four tonnes of sharp-clawed, meat-eating dinosaur. The herd panicked, stampeding across the muddy flats to escape and a record of those few terrifying minutes is cast in thousands of fossilised footprints. These fossils tell us of a cooler, wetter world, when dinosaurs roamed the earth and the mammal's time was yet to come.
Birdsville is an iconic Outback town and will undoubtedly be a staging post prior to crossing the Sturt Stony Desert (it's called that for a reason!), allowing us access to the beautiful Flinders Ranges and the vineyards of South Australia.
The next planned route-survey will not be until September when we shall return to the area with local help to find an exciting and workable path from Longreach to Adelaide.
NOVEMBER 2010
Primary Australian Survey Report: During October 2010, we completed an initial survey of the tropical regions of the route, beginning in Sydney and pushing up into the far north of Queensland. My main reasons for covering this section at this time of year was to discover whether we can rely on finding passable roads in the more isolated sections of Queensland and to gain local knowledge on prevailing weather conditions prior to the 'wet' season; I am both happy and disappointed with our findings.
Initially, I spent a couple of days in Sydney preparing a 'Utility', while Lally used the time to visit numerous possible start venues involving either the Opera House itself, one of the high-quality establishments with views across the harbour to the Opera House, or something a little different but with guarantees of good food and wine.
Our route out of the metropolis passes underneath the gigantic structure of the Harbour Bridge, giving an idea as to the engineering feat this must have been in 1924 for such a relatively young colony with little immediate wealth. As we depart, views across the water take in the Opera House with its resemblance to the sails of ships from a bygone maritime era. I have modified our previously planned route to give you a chance to enjoy your first meeting with the culture of the indigenous people, the Australian Aborigines. We then begin a climb into the Blue Mountains, named for the haze of eucalypt that rises from the forest, leaving behind the rush and bustle of the city for a more laid-back pace in keeping with a 'Jaunt'. The wildlife, birds in particular, was in abundance as we worked our way deeper into the mountains. I mentioned disappointments earlier; one of those, unfortunately, is the vast commercialism that Australia has seen over the last two decades, and it is horribly apparent from the enormous highways being built westward with no thought for the fragile ecology of these mountains. On a more upbeat note, the pretty townships of Katoomba and Leura hold a garden festival in the first week of October, which we hope may clash with our itinerary. Our chosen accommodation for your first night 'on the road' is a high-quality hotel with outrageous views across the mountains and an award-winning restaurant. There is timing in your schedule to continue one hour further on from the hotel to make a visit to Jenolan Caves. The Operations Manager gave us a private tour; I was so enthralled by the scale and majesty of the caves that we might well use them as one of your included excursions on the tour.
Here, we turn north on good dirt roads, the first of your adventure, passing through mountainous forests and some very isolated but attractive botanic gardens. There are two ferries to board as well, crossing the Hawkesbury and MacDonald rivers; however, bookings are not required. We spent some time in this region finding a workable and interesting route; the route we finally settled for is both shorter and more scenic than my original plan. While here, we also stumbled on a 5-star bus shelter with sofa and armchairs to lounge in whilst waiting for the bus; my primary thought was whether this was the locals' way of hinting that the service may be lacking? The houses of these small townships are invariably typical colonial-style grand houses with large gardens or otherwise quaint workers' cottages with small verandas. In Wollombi, we stopped at the tavern to experience 'Dr. Jurd's Jungle Juice'... yummy.... not tooooo alcoholic and all in the course of a survey! Continuing on an alcoholic note, the Hunter valley is one of the oldest regions of viniculture in Oz and famous for the quality of its Semillon and Shiraz; our timing for the event itself should enable you to enjoy a lunch halt somewhere in the vineyards.
Along the Waterfall's Drive Outback roads are dusty! 5-Star bus shelterLally caught a glimpse of her first 'roo' today, bounding through the scrub beside the road, but also of note is the myriad of colourful and exotic birds; wonderful parrots, parakeets, cockatoos and galahs. For those of an equestrian bent, we pass Muswellbrook and Scone, the horse-breeding capitals of Australia with huge covered arenas and white post-and-rail fences as far as the eye can see.
Continuing north, we came across much larger 'red' kangaroos almost at the roadside and moving fast, which reminded us of how swiftly they can move and quickly change direction; be warned!
Wollombi gorge and falls are at the convergence of two rivers with impressive views, although to walk and explore the area in detail would take weeks. The area is also famous for platypus, a monotreme. Monotremes are a sub-family of mammals, there are only two animals that belong to this sub-family: platypus and echidnas; monotremes lay eggs rather than giving birth to their young as most other mammals. We found some very beautiful walks in the national park, and have included a twisty and scenic mountain road for those who like to enjoy the driving experience. I have made changes to the advertised route as we rejoin the coast because I find that Coffs Harbour is now little more than a holiday camp for Aussies escaping their mundane 9-to-5 jobs.
The climate gets warmer as we keep on north, and the jacarandas are beginning their beautiful lilac display in the towns of Grafton and Lismore. I've chosen numerous gravel roads through this section but one should beware of wandering livestock, we also came upon pademelons, dingos and wallabies. Furthermore, there was evidence of recent bushfires, and prevailing weather conditions can make driving even more hazardous.
Progressing onward, entering sub-tropical regions, the bush becomes dense, heavy and wet with some magnificent scenery and outstanding roads. It has been a most unusual season recording the wettest October ever, but the rainforest thrives in these conditions filling every conceivable space with growth and life. Using local knowledge on roads into Lamington, I found a good 4x4 section that we 'only just' managed to clear (for Lally, the ignorance must be bliss!?), crossing huge washouts and badly rutted tracks before concluding the day at our chosen rainforest retreat; there is, however, a tarmac alternative for the classic cars. Fuel is not plentiful on our planned route in and out of the national park, but your roadbook will state this to ensure you are not left stranded. Lamington is a marvellous spot to relax and unwind on our first rest day. The magnificently coloured birds will come and eat from your open palm; but you can also discover the beautiful but not so friendly plants that can sting badly enough to paralyse a person. For those who need man-made stimulation, the coast with its bars, boobs and beaches is only an hour away.
A track through the bush Some common wildlife .... and colourful wildlife The route leading us out of the national park is narrow and winding but very scenic, and very well known for duck-billed platypus in the many rivers. As mentioned previously, the unseasonable weather has made some roads impassable but I have been assured this amount of rain is usually reserved for late November or December and that historically the road conditions are good in October. I've secured a beautiful and picturesque route to the west of Brisbane, twisting and turning through forest and mountain, a road ideally suited to a well-sorted classic car; a Healey or perhaps a Mercedes roadster? The Glasshouse Mountains are interesting volcanic plugs on a landscape of few other contours, and it is from this point that we began to notice insects enjoying our lily-white skin. North of Noosa Heads, we surveyed our first proper beach drive, 41 km of vast white sandy beach, before taking a small and rutted 15 km bush track inland to join the road to our comfortable hotel. Classic cars may use the beach but it is tide dependant if you wish to avoid the rutted bush track.
Here we begin to move deeper into sugar country and, with the cane being harvested at this time of year, the wonderful smell of the molasses and dundah coming from the sugar mills gives one more feelings of the balmy tropical life. The famous Bundaberg rum distillery is on our route, and there are plenty of tours around the plant detailing the entire procedure, although it was a little too touristy for my tastes (pun not intended). It was here, at night, that we could hear bats screaming and swooping for insects as well as the soporific sound of cicadas rubbing their legs in communication. One of the less positive details of this journey for the 'owls' amongst us is the fact that to travel in daylight hours will require early starts; the sun rises at 05.15 and sets at 17.45.
We found another 4x4 track up the coast that we managed to navigate through gritted teeth; however, if the conditions are wet and the track has not received some attention, you may need to travel in convoy. Also on this day of the tour, we found some charming privately owned caves, giving friendly guided tours and evincing a quaint innocent atmosphere, as yet not sucked in by the commercial vampire!
North of Rockhampton, the primary industry is undoubtedly sugar with vast tracts lining each side of the highway. I have a close friend from bygone rally days living in the Mackay region and he showed me a superb 4x4 track that somewhat unfortunately travels east to west on a long day, when we need to be travelling from the south to the north; I will therefore make it an option for those who desire.
I cannot cease mentioning the brightly coloured and sometimes melodic wildlife. The tropics surely have the most inspiring colours between the fish, the birds and the insects. Lally also spotted some very dubious-looking snakes on this section of the survey and I, for one, was not about to question her judgment! The day's end is at a ferry terminal for the one-hour transfer to our tranquil coral atoll, so we have arranged drinks and canapes on board. Whilst enjoying your rest day on the island, we have found endless ways for you to experience the Great Barrier Reef including snorkelling, water-skiing, reef and game fishing, seaplane and helicopter flights as well as walking tracks, swimming pools and spa treatments. With over 30 activities, no one should get bored.
Sandwiched between two rest days we have no alternative but a long transport section. I have looked closely at what is on offer and, in trying to show you a good proportion of the country, I feel that today must be endured; at 632 km, it is the longest day of the tour, although all on sealed highways. I have simply included one nice wildlife-filled walk for a break in the middle of the day and, indeed on that subject, another of the locals in this region to be aware of is the salt-water crocodile or 'Salty'. These reptiles are a realistic danger and you should heed the warning signs beginning to appear at the estuaries of all rivers.
Another rest day in Cairns offers more options to visit the Reef in case you need to overload your senses once more. Or alternatively, the city itself has some exceptional Aboriginal art in its galleries, much of which is for sale. Lally cajoled me into taking her to the botanic gardens; I dragged my heels as any self-respecting Grease-monkey would but must now eat my words. Of course, where better to see millions upon millions of tropical oddities and entities growing in their true climate but protected from the ravages of mankind et al.? Truly magnificent!
I am extremely happy with both alternative routes out of Cairns. Whether choosing the palm-fringed coastal drive with its 'stop you in your tracks' beaches and vistas or opting for the twisty and scenic inland route, you will surely enjoy this drive. I returned to the plantation that I worked on in 1987, and my old boss gave me a contact at his local sugar mill, which we visited; we now plan to include a guided tour of the factory detailing the extraction process from raw cane to refined sugar crystals. I also have knowledge on some of the more rugged 4x4 tracks heading up on to the Cape York Peninsula and, although we don't have the time and resources to begin any of the truly heavy-duty tracks, I am planning to give an exciting day's drive from Mossman up to Cooktown. There are also options for crocodile-spotting tours in many of the rivers, Lally enjoyed one of these excursions, found it informative, and confirms that you are very unlikely not to see several crocs; after all, this is their native habitat.
Cockatoo visits the island Fun on the beach River crossingCooktown itself is a quiet and restful place; I must say we ate well at the seafood restaurant on the wharf, although there is barely enough to fill a day in the township itself. However, we want to offer some indigenous interaction and have found a good Aboriginal fella who will take you through a section of his tribal homeland to show you 'bush tucker', medicinal plants and ancient rock art. It is a drive of just over 40 km from Cooktown. Lally and I made this excursion, finding him informative and funny but passionate about his culture and history; he is uncompromisingly honest and dispels many myths emanating from 'modern' Aboriginal Australia. We learnt of termite colonies, using the Earth's magnetism to aid them in their navigation, as well as plants to use as skin cream and others to keep well away from! Typically, the indigenous people have a beautiful calm and gentle manner that many of us could do well to follow.
It is from this point that we begin to move in a generally southerly direction, passing through a tiny mining township abandoned many years previously after an underground disaster. I found it moving to wander through the rural cemetery reading some of the poignant epitaphs for lost loved ones, while others have a simple rusty tag with a number to mark their occupant's final resting place. It is from here that we have a superb twisty drive for the classic cars with forest cover so dense that the GPS struggles to find satellites; indeed, there is much to see in the area of the Atherton Tablelands, including some fig trees of gargantuan proportions. We have made another small change in itinerary here too, as I found better roads and better accommodation than originally planned so decided to take advantage of them; tourism is a service industry and I am wholly unimpressed when not offered great service by suppliers and am happy to look elsewhere if options are available. Lally is an undoubted champion for the girls; she has a differing set of requirements from this tour. She is 'on the lookout' for spa & massage treatments, aromatherapy products, nice shops, and cool poolside lounge's with waiting staff rather than challenging roads with nothing to eat except dust! This makes us a good survey team and I feel we can cover most available options.
On leaving the Tablelands, we noticed unusual ladders and cylindrical tubes made of netting strung across the road at numerous points, it appears they are for the more creative wildlife to cross without risk to life and limb. If you wish to enjoy some hot springs on the roadside, we have left a waypoint where you can simply dig a hole in the sandy creek bed to benefit from a hot soak; the deeper you dig, the hotter the water! Heading west now, we cross some of the big cattle stations and it's from here that we start to see the huge road-trains that Australia is so famous for, with combinations up to 180 feet (55 m) long and weighing in excess of 120 tons; quite magnificent, for the boys anyway! Our overnight halt is at the lava tubes in Undara, where you will have time to make a tour and get an interesting understanding of how they were formed by a massive volcanic upheaval some 190,000 years ago. We sat around a huge barbeque for an evening meal with the campfire blazing while our guide strummed guitar and sang songs by Banjo Paterson and 'Slim' Dusty. Then to bed in restored railway carriages scattered amongst the eucalypts. Breakfast too was a fun experience, just a few hundred metres from the carriages we brewed-up 'billy' tea and cooked 'damper' over the coals of an open fire.
Fuel stations are scarce in this region, as much as 300 km apart, but the roadbook will remind you to fill your tanks. The landscape itself is fairly barren and mundane and so we have tried to find a few points of interest throughout the day, but at the same time remembering that you will have a reasonable distance to cover. One of those points of interest is a little hotel we came across in a town with just one horse! The hotel is sawdust on the floor, a very basic but real bush pub where you can 'wet ya whistle' and pass time with the locals. Unfortunately, we hit two 'roos today; luckily I managed to scrub off speed, but they can be large and fast moving objects when your senses are dulled by the monotony of the endless open savannah-type Outback. Another danger of the Outback is the fires; if too much fuel accumulates on the ground, then a 'hot' fire can burn out of control destroying everything in its path. 'Cool' fires are more often started intentionally to remove a smaller amount of dry waste while it can still be managed; indeed, it is the Australian Aborigine who initially used this method to prevent disaster. Some hardy plant seeds can remain dormant on the surface or in the soil for more than a decade until an intense fire triggers their tough exterior to split releasing the seed itself, which then has little competition from other plant types.
An echidna and a wild boar as well as the more common wallaby hurried across in front of us during the late afternoon as the sun cooled. We were also surprised to come upon a herd of camel drifting slowly across our dirt track; the midday hours are safer for travel when you are more likely to encounter a few mad dogs and hoards of Englishmen! I have found an amazing but really basic track that will only be an option, however, if we don't have rain. Large areas of bull-dust and the unclear, unmarked road would be problematic in the wet. It is definitely 'off the beaten track' but an inspiring route because of it. Lally and I arrived at Porcupine Gorge and were able to take the benefit of a walk to the lookout with the vast surrounding plains amid a gentle, still and peaceful afternoon before the sun went down. We are now in Outback Australia where comforts are rudimentary, the landscape is vast and barren, but the changes through the day are interesting, although the road-mapping and GPS is not very accurate. I will say though that our hotels are clean and air-conditioned, the food remarkably good, and the beer is cold! Longreach is the capital of this cattle-growing country, and we've found a quality cattleman's bar and grill for you to taste. South from here, we have another lonely track to navigate that eventually brings us to Carnarvon Gorge National Park. Our lodge is a great place to relax; I spent a happy evening in the library updating notes and GPS information. There is plenty to do and see in the park itself, and we are thinking of an extra rest day here to enjoy the area.
Harvesting sugar cane Tropical surroundings Road hazard!Studying survey notes of the route south combined with knowledge I have gathered brings me to a point where I must now decide which route to follow. The Outback continuing south from here on the route I had intended is pretty unspectacular for several days, the parks and accommodation uninspiring and dull. We finished our survey at this point, as we had run out of time with only two days before we needed to board a plane back to NZ. Therefore, I am now working on several other options; my preferred choice is to take the entire event down one route without an alternative. My contacts in the region are suggesting that we dive down through the Simpson Desert, navigating some of Australia's harshest terrain and returning to civilisation in the vineyards of the Flinders Ranges north of Adelaide. Forthcoming surveys will undoubtedly give us the answers; watch this space.
And finally, in answer to the question: Are we going to move the start date by one month? A simple, Yes. I am happy we can rely on useable roads in the northern sections of the route and take advantage of better spring weather in the southern regions; therefore, the event will now be rescheduled to begin on Sunday 7th October 2012.
SEPTEMBER 2010
Christchurch Earthquake
This is a general message to everyone just to let you know.........We are fine. We've had so many of you enquiring about the Earthquake and its effect on us; we would like to thank you all for your thoughts. You will have received more thorough details from the news media and indeed, we can confirm that it was an extremely harrowing experience. Our property is situated 35km south of the city and though we lost the chimney, it is thankful that the old house is built of wood and therefore has more flexibility than stone. The workshop received no structural damage simply shelving spilling its contents across the floors and one or two machines falling over. Lally and I fled from the house as events unfolded managing to grab blankets and water on our way out. We spent the remainder of the night huddled in the car, positioned in the middle of the field where nothing could fall on us, listening to the national radio for information on tsunami warnings and updates. The city itself took a much harder hit with some of the lovely old buildings now requiring demolition. We are still experiencing heavy aftershocks even as I write; though we are assured these will diminish as time passes.
As an aside, the little church in our valley usually receives between 4 & 5 parishioners for its Sunday service but not this Sunday!! Numbers where between 30 & 40 which reminds us of John Betjemans poem "Diary of a Church Mouse."
Primary Route Survey
Air tickets and a Ute' are booked for the initial route survey beginning on October 4. Starting in Sydney looking at various start venues, it will follow our intended route up the east coast into the tropics. We have timed this survey specifically for October because I want to look at the condition of roads in the northern section of the route and to gain local knowledge of likely prevailing weather in this region; it is more than twenty years since I worked here.
For those of you in the northern hemisphere, the southern hemisphere sees spring in September but further north in the tropics the rainy season draws near. I am juggling dates slightly because I would like you to experience spring/summer in the south, however, not leave too late to guarantee the rains have not arrived in the north.
My intention is to move the start date forward by 2 or 4 weeks (into October) if I am confident we can rely on the weather in the north.
We have limited accommodation in the central Queensland "Outback" section and therefore I would also like to ensure we have the best available.
JULY 2010
Kia Ora atui Aotearoa (Greetings from New Zealand),
We have recently returned from a trip to Europe meeting up with customers/friends to launch the "Australian Amble." Initial response has been very positive with a pleasing number of early enquiries which, if result in deposits, puts us in a favourable position to push ahead with plans.
A large percentage of the feedback has asked for a tough "Outback" section. My only concern is that customers be aware of just how tough the true "Outback" really is? I am currently working on using two of the iconic Australian tracks, or a combination of both to give a picture of the "Never - Never" beyond the "Black Stump." This option will leave the main event on Day 17, rejoining in Adelaide on Day 24 giving 7-8 days to cover approximately 2500km; camping will be required on at least two occasions. Those taking this route must understand it is not for the faint-hearted and dust will get into everything; Even where the sun doesn't shine, and I'm not joking! However, I am also aware that many of my clients are very experienced global travellers having crossed isolated sections of harsh continents. Towns such as Birdsville have a huge reputation in the Australian psyche and will undoubtedly give those taking this alternative a more diverse view of the country and its people. Participants would be required to travel in a loose convoy. I.e. "I counted them out, and I counted them in." This "Beyond the Black Stump" route will take some time to plan and recce but we will update the website with our findings.
Friend and customer, Jim Carr has put me in contact with an experienced bush pilot who would be prepared to fly us over parts of the route prior to making an overland survey.
Ka kite ano.
